SideView Magazine's fashion correspondent Gaby Doman takes through the trends and highlights of New York Fashion Week.
The sun may not yet have made an appearance this year, but we’re already planning our wardrobes for next winter. New York Fashion week gave us our first taste of winter 2013, with masculine tailoring, evening separates, sports luxe and seventies inspired pieces.
Outerwear was given a new silhouette, with bibs from Rodarte, cocoon coats from Proenza Schouler, capes at Vera Wang, Donna Karan and Derek Lam and double-breasted blazers at Tommy Hilfiger all sweeping down the runways.
The tuxedo was also given a new lease of life by Calvin Klein and Victoria, Victoria Beckham (VB’s diffusion line) which showcased tuxedo-inspired dresses paired with shirts sexed up with sky high hemlines.
Calvin Klein
Victoria Beckham
But thigh-skimming hemlines weren’t the only way designers injected sex appeal into their collections. In fact, autumn/ winter will see a lot more flashing of back and shoulders if Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang’s deep backless pieces are anything to go by.
Shoulders were also highlighted with bold-shouldered coats at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Michael Kors and Alexander Wang, further solidifying the trend of futuristic silhouettes for outwear.
Marc Jacobs
Alexander Wang
Texture-wise, two stand-out looks were velvet and fur. When it comes to velvet, you can never have too much according to Diane Von Furstenberg, Ralph Lauren and 3.1 Phillip Lim who all used the fabric head-to-toe. 3.1 Phillip Lim’s deep blue double-breasted suit was perhaps the definitive piece of the trend; wearable and cutting edge. The touchy-feely trend was continued with the regular and always controversial appearance of fur, which was championed by Thakoon, Derek Lam, J. Mendel, Jason Wu and Altuzarra. If you go for the real deal next season, do so at your own risk.
Diane Von Furstenberg
Ralph Lauren
Palette wise, both chic and understated women and those who prefer to rock loud jewel tones will find something to suit them. Black and white was a huge trend, as it tends to be when designers grow weary of bright summer hues. Proenza Schouler provided the most inspiring monochrome looks, which drew New York Fashion week to a close. Stunning tailoring was emphasised by black, white and slate greys to recreate the look of tweed and just a hint of barely pink to soften the look. Alexander Wang and Altuzarra were also backing the monochrome look.
But for those who like to bring a little colour to their winter, jewel reds (seen at Jason Wu, Vivienne Tam and Oscar de la Renta), blues (Victoria Beckham, Diane Von Furstenberg and Michael Kors) and turquoise are the go-to shades. Galliano’s much anticipated collection with Oscar de la Renta reached its peak with a turquoise show-stopping dress paired with a cloche hat and ruby red lips. Philip Lim and Alexander Wang also sent their fair share of turquoise down the runways.
PROENZA SCHOULER
Vivienne Tam
